Top rope vs lead climbing reddit If you're setting up a sport climb for top roping where the bolts and anchors are on the vertical face and you can visually inspect the anchor at any time, then it's fine to use non-locking carabiners. 1. I have been strictly top rope so far and have gotten up to 5. Any tips and recommendations is much appreciated. 9 outside. What does r/climbharder think about this? For a beginner I would recommend getting the cheapest rope that's climbing rated you can find. The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. Learn to belay a lead climber, including how it differs from top-rope belaying. So far I've just been using rental gear at the gym, but I'm shopping around for harnesses and I have a simple question. It isn't as useful when weight matters, since it's a bit heavier than the lightest ropes. This is designed to be an introduction into lead rope soloing catering to a beginner soloist; However, my hope is that anybody who solos, beginner to expert, can take something from this resource. Plus I want to dip my toes in some lead climbing this season. Generally if you’re new to lead climbing you don’t fully understand how more slack = less impact (the impact gets applied to system slower and more evenly spread out through out the system). We cover gear, setup, safety, communication and technique. 13 would have maybe v7-8 moves, but a 60 foot 13 would have v4-5 moves. M. And now I can finally lead with my gf belaying. This creates a continuous loop that protects the climber in case of a fall. Lead rope soloing is a very niche type of climbing that not very many people know how to do compared to the number of climbers in the world. The people I know who progress pretty quickly at lower grades on rope split time between bouldering and roped climbing-- progressively shifting towards more bouldering as a percentage of training as their roped climbing grades have gone up. Gri gri or gri gri + will work but will require you to manually pull rope through every once in a while. I've written the following guide to help you keep the two straight!… Hi! Just started climbing, and I've only done top rope and bouldering so far, but in all of the professional climbing I've seen, everyone is climbing lead. (price does not matter in this discussion) I'm mainly concerned about the cam engaging too often when lowering or due to rope drag which could get frustrating. A climbing rope has never ever broken top-roping. It eliminates the need for the rappel change over at the top of the climb which is how most accidents occur, and more closely mimics the mechanics of lead climbing. Now, you can also use this device to rappel without a prusik. By the time you've worn out your first rope you'll know what you want your second rope to do. So I made a small graphic. The only thing top rope and leading have in common are the moves you have to execute to finish the climb. 11-5. 40m is a good default for most gyms but some with tall lead walls will require 45m, while if it has a shorter lead wall you might be fine with 35m (if a friend also needs a gym rope, you can split a 70m and have it cut in half). In my groups I'm the one who sets anchors (I know knots and how to dress them). In a top rope situation, what's wrong with attaching the climber to the rope with a locking biner, instead of constantly tying and untying a figure eight follow through? I can see that the system would have an additional point of failure, but if my carabiners are good enough to be used for the anchors, then they are good enough to be used anywhere. Paying out slack is smooth once you get it down, so I recommend for you to practice lead belaying in the gym before you head outside with it. Would love to hear your My biggest tips would be to lead vs. In this article we explain the pros and cons of each! I paid for a lead class through my local gym. Skinny ropes of all designations are fine for alpine climbing, just understand that you might have to retire the rope if you actually whip (worst case scenario). Is there really any significant difference between a cheaper vs a more expensive model? Aug 23, 2022 · 1. Most beginner's at my gym use the maxim equinox because its the cheapest rope that the local MEC carries. Nov 27, 2023 · This article compares top rope and lead climbing, discussing the differences in technique, equipment, mental and physical challenges, and risk. The Ecrin Roc can be found on rare occasion and is still used as rentals, but that's all backstock- they have ceased production. Ropes appear expensive so I want to make sure that I'm buying the right one. One thing I would revise--check with your gym on the rope length you'll need. There are many ways to set up a top rope anchor and this article covers 7 of them. In my personal opinion climbing routes in gyms is good for endurance, strength, and can help you understand the movements required in climbing as a beginner. Does anyone have experience with the Pinch? How does it feel compared to the Grigri? Is it good for lead? Thanks! Feb 13, 2024 · Both lead climbing and top rope climbing have their unique techniques and benefits. For a gym, especially top-rope, new climbers tying the wrong knot or not finishing it up might be an even bigger safety concern though. Dec 27, 2022 · Most commercial climbing gyms provide lead and top rope climbing. I mainly top rope and i boulder with my friends as well, but i prefer top rope. The difference between lead climbing and toproping It’s only marginally ridiculous to declare that toproping is to lead climbing as plastic tricycles are to carbon fiber racing bikes. God damn it was so much fun. The setup I mentioned allows you to climb freely without having to mess with the rope. According to the charts I have seen this all lines up (the trad downgrade being a purely fear thing which I’m working on). I only do when my partner wants to go to the climbing gym. 274 votes, 101 comments. 12a max, sport lead 5. Great advice. I know everyone always says work on your feet, but it is probably the universal truth of climbing. So I'm going to start lead climbing in my local gym and I'm going to need a rope. Sep 2, 2015 · In a nutshell: Top rope and lead climbing are methods for protecting a climb. 8/5. First rope + lead/sport gear purchase advice I climbing mostly at the gym but my target is outdoor, I just got lead verified and am looking to get some gear, I am cost conscious but also completely obsessed with climbing. Dec 4, 2022 · Safety Considerations Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Going to use a standard grigri on my belay loop and a Petzl shunt as a backup on my leg loop (but also pas’d up to my main harness loops). This is because the height of the top rope wall is about half of the height of the lead wall, and also because the lead wall has lots of overhangs. A. I currently work in a climbing gym that offers bouldering, top rope and lead climbing. When a climber falls, having a solid top rope anchor is literally a matter of life and death. ( think instead of placing gear or clipping bolts, you're pulling rope and tying knots at regular intervals to protect yourself) If you clip in with a carabiner, you should always use the belay loop, and never leg and waist loops. Movement Englewood, Baker, Boulder, and Golden all have top rope and lead climbing. P. 8)- the texture on the sheath is so soft and the rope itself is flexible Originally I was looking for an USHBA basic ascender, which seems to be the best "non-teethed" device on the market for use as a top-rope solo device. I forced myself to do some today but didn't leave feeling any better about it--actually managed to psych myself out on a top rope route after that. My SO and I got into an argument about sport climbing. Pretty sure most of the top grades in climbing, maybe save the 5. This post goes over the exact differences and the gear used. Our ropes will probably need to be replaced in the next year, so I wanted to poll the sub. I've seen the Edelrid Pinch and love the fact that you can clip it directly to the belay loop. 10d and 5. However, since it is not being made anymore I am looking at the C. My climbing gym only has 24ft top rope/autobelay walls. Google it to find pictures of how to orient the devices. A "top roping course" that's 5 hours long is usually to learn how to set up top ropes outside, ie how to set safe anchors and stuff like that. Most of my anticipated outdoor projects this year are at least double that length. Jan 4, 2024 · Top rope climbing is a beginner-friendly style of climbing where the rope runs from the climber's harness up to an anchor system at the top of the route and back down to the belayer on the ground. I really liked the Grigri for top roping. The majority of the people in my gym who boulder regularly actually climb outside and albeit sometimes they top rope, it's extremely rare. Englewood’s rope section is massive! No auto belays but it seems relatively easy to find a climbing partner. However, of all the climbing styles one can partake in, top-roping is typically safer. It's really hard to equate the grades of bouldering and rope because if a route is 30 feet, a 5. top rope whenever feasible to get better at learning to rest efficiently & feel more comfortable with lead. My claim is that you should get used to projecting on lead because when you're the person who has to lead outdoors for the group (typically me), you don't have the luxury of trying to top-rope it first, and so exposure to difficult flash/onsight leading is good mental training. I'm a year into climbing (gym, top rope) and recently learned and tested so I can lead climb at my gym. I'm not a trad dad, but to me this seems a little bit scary; I can't quite put my finger on it but I absolutely prefer to instead use it as a normal ATC and with a prusik. com There are several things the leader has to take into account such as the weight of the rope to deal with, the difficulty of letting go with one hand briefly to clip, and the mental challenge of risk management with regard to falling and body position. Master belaying under the guidance of a veteran climber or professional guide. Knowing the difference between top roping and lead climbing is an important distinction. 15's, have been done on ropes right around the 10mm range. Primarily single pitch climbers, though looking to get on more multis. (Being ultra-durable, you will see many climbers still with the Ecrin Roc, but they bought it years ago) Today only the Vertex is offered, as well as one other model (I forget which). 10b-c, while projecting 5. 9, and boulder at V3 with the occasional V4. Top rope vs lead climbing - We look at what top roping is and what lead climbing is, whilst considering how they are similar and different. " Hi climbers, I’m planning on top rope soloing a 50m single pitch, anchor at the top, throw my 70m rope down, rap, and then climb back up. Thanks! Jun 14, 2021 · Just staring off climbing and wondering, what’s the difference between top rope and lead climbing? What you need to learn the lingo! Yes I have used the 2 before just to clarify. I started lead climbing, then switched to almost only bouldering, which I think all in all has affected my "technique" negatively for lead. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Will either the grigri+ or neox be better for top rope lowering my 50lb kids who I often have to manually feed the rope to get them back down? Currently have a Jul and a grigri2. I would absolutely encourage you to top rope if it helps you feel more Jul 24, 2025 · Discover the key differences between bouldering vs lead climbing, including gear, risks, techniques, and which style suits you best. About the weight, yeah it's not exactly light, but I'm no alpinist, so "hauling" that extra 500g up to the sport crag is not that dramatic. 9, but have been wondering lately; Should I stick with top rope, or is it better to "cross train" on bouldering problems? With lead climbing you need to have more awareness of your feet. May 22, 2025 · Both top-rope and lead climbing fall under the umbrella of rope climbing, but the transition between the two can be daunting and tricky to navigate. As the climber ascends, the belayer, who is positioned at the bottom, offers support and takes up the I don't really have any experience with the top rope vs lead mode feature so i can't really speak to the potential usefulness. Knowing how to belay with multiple devices is an asset. Goblin since it uses the same system as the USHBA and is being currently made. On top rope you don't need to think about the rope, clipping Top rope in my gym is generally smaller holds and a bit more technical, compared to a lead route in the same difficulty level. Even if you do all of your easier warm-ups on lead before moving to top roping, it'll make a difference! I'd also practice clipping off the wall. In this case, clipping into a pre-tied knot with a carabiner leave a lot less space for mistakes. Why is this? Isn't top rope a little safer, as there basically aren't falls? Climbing lead is also different, you might want to work on endurance and footwork, you are holding your entire weight for the climb unlike top rope and you have to stop to place protection, precise moves will help prevent you from burning out. What are different diameters for? What kind of core is preferable? Silly question: are certain colors for anything? What kind of length would I need if the walls at my gym are 50-60ft? Is there a preferred material? What kind of rating I started out top roping and slowly worked myself into lead. My question is, how can I improve my stamina and endurance without pumping out so quickly? Recently noticed lots of people don't understand where you clip from doesn't change the length of the fall, only how far from the ground you end up. They do however leave a lot to be desired. I avoid repelling and use runners to tether when belaying (TR). Add the mental factor of fall on top rope (almost nothing happens) vs on boulder (I need to fall well to not snap my leg). Hi! I want to buy a climbing harness for my boyfriend, have you got any advice? I don't have much money, I was thinking about spending about €100. . ♥️ My gym does the lead test on a 5. I climb about v3-4’s. Appalachian single pitch w top access via hiking. Average diameter of rope when action direct (14d) was first sent was 10mm. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. 11-, trad 5. I’m sure it takes some getting used to but I felt like the rope was pulling/holding me up some, so it wasn’t as good of a work out as bouldering. Depends on the type of top rope anchor. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. Lead Climbing: ATC vs GriGri vs etc. I have lots of belay experience with regular grigri's and ATC's but I want to get my own grigri. That’s why bouldering is more approachable to beginners. And yes we are scared of falling. I will sometimes be climbing with less experienced people. It’ll be my main focus/goal for this outdoor season. Currently I spend most of my time top-roping but I'm working my way up to Lead Climbing so I can climb outdoors. 5 C4 = 12 kN), you should feel safe top roping on the cordelette. The 2019 is definitely better than the gri gri 2 so if you have a choice between the two go for the updated version. I would assume that anyone who has a grigri hanging off their harness would know how to use it, but if they didn’t, it’s definitely on them to tell you that before they start belaying you with it. Two quickdraws with non-locking biners is a very common anchor set-up for that kind of thing. Of you get tangled in the rope and fall you can flip and get hurt! Also, you should be good at finding efficient rest stances for clipping and regenerating energy. Have you belayed a 95kg person on lead or on top rope? How was your experience? I finally got the ohm last week, was available sooner than anticipated. 8 - 5. While im still a beginner, im looking for It took me going through this to realize that those climbers I used to see leading hard routes didn't get to that point by TRing even harder routes; they got there by always lead climbing. 8, if you want to get comfortable practicing bring a mock rope with you and clip that while you are climbing top rope. Just wanted to chime in that no climbing will ever be “risk free”! It’s all about the kind of risk that one is assuming: bouldering has a high risk of decking, but can generally be low consequence if proper measures are taken; top roping has a low risk of decking, but pretty high consequence if things go wrong. 10+/5. Just did my first top rope solo, would love to get some feedback on the system I used. Let's discuss each phrase and why you might lead or top rope. In top rope im doing consistent 5. Am I wrong with assuming that lead climbing and top roping are encompassed within sport climbing? In lead, the selection it's a compromise between efficiency and risk of failure, so in that sense lead is more mentally difficult than bouldering. If you feel safe taking lead falls on cams (BD 0. Aug 21, 2023 · Sport climbing and top rope climbing are two different styles of rock climbing. They vary in terms of techniques, equipment, and physical and mental demands. "low elongation" ropes for toprope at most gyms) so people are always surprised at how much they stretch, so you usually want to hold people a bit tight at the base of the climb and when they are climbing right above a ledge. The main difference between the two is the lack of ropes in bouldering. I do like using the lead wall, we have excellent setters. Climb the route, top rope up a second, then GTFO so others can climb too. Sport climbing involves lead climbing, where the climber ascends the route while clipping into fixed anchors (bolts) along the way. The home of Climbing on reddit. Feb 2, 2025 · There are significant differences between bouldering and top rope climbing from safety to health and cost. For me personally, the lead routes are harder because of endurance (lenght and overhangs), but generally the holds are I top rope at 5. The gym juggles the now-usual brand of offerings: birthday parties, youth camps, and adult classes, plus a multitude of top rope and lead routes alongside a small bouldering area. : r/climbing Go to climbing r/climbing r/climbing Outside- it's a different story- I know your lead level is a grade, to a grade and a half below your cleaning or top rope level, but I've been finding I have trouble even top roping or following 5. A true suspension helmet with no foam is actually pretty hard to buy now. I am using a 9. Feb 21, 2025 · Top rope climbing, on the other hand, involves ascending a route while being secured by a rope. 8 dynamic rope with a jumar as primary and microtraxion (backup) on a single New to indoor climbing. Prefer lowering top rope on ATC as well, gives me a more direct control (the GriGri handle is pretty sensitive). I’ve used Mammut, Bluewater, and Black Diamond in that order of preference. Each piece is essential for ensuring safety during climbs. The problem? I become nearly paralyzed with anxiety about actually climbing lead routes. At a minimum I think I will need a rope and a rope bag, my main question is should I get a 60m vs a 35/40m rope? Top Rope vs Top Belay? Pros/cons? Safety, ease of use, setup, cleaning. Hello! I've been climbing for about 2 years now, but over the past 3 months have been going on a regular basis and getting more serious about it. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Apr 4, 2025 · It is useful for single-pitch climbing (lead or top-rope), gym climbing, moderate multi-pitch, and even aid climbing and ice top-roping. I climb a lot with people who are already experienced with regular grigri. The rope runs from the climber’s harness, through an anchor at the top of the route, and back down to a belayer on the ground. Sure, the same fundamental factors are at play—rope, carabiner, gravity—wheels, pedals, legs—but the interactions between those factors are pretty The best current setup for top rope soloing is a combo of the Trango Vergo and the Microtrax. It's great to start off with top, it's a good way to learn technique and build confidence but if you're waiting to reach a point where you know 100% you're ready for lead, you might not reach it. Hello all! Ive been climbing in Evolv Kronos and while they are great, im wanting something more for top rope, for the small footholds and overhang/slight overhang. 11+ confidently in a gym setting. 113 votes, 200 comments. Now when I talk to folks at the gym about new, difficult routes, they say "yeah, I'll probably practice it on top rope for a while before I lead it. However, even top-roping can lead to serious injury and catastrophic accidents without the correct safety precautions. The modes is noticeable because it does cam a LOT less when its in lead mode verses when it's a in top rope mode. 11a’s. The natural progression is from top rope to lead. Also worth mentioning there is the grigri plus that has selectable options for top rope or lead climbing which increases the amount of friction needed to lock it out. It’s totally normal for leading level to be lower than top rope level. Hey everyone, I've been climbing for about 7 months, so if I don't say something correctly I'm sorry! Recently within the past two months I have gotten into top rope climbing and I can confidently climbing 5. Dec 5, 2024 · Top roping requires more gear, such as a harness, rope, belay device, and sometimes quickdraws for lead climbing. And the difference between top-rope and Lead, well that's a whole different topic, but essentially, it's the reverse of top-rope, because you are giving out rope as the climber climbs, rather than taking in the slack, in addition to a lot of extra things to pay attention to. He is adamant that top-roping is absolutely NOT sport climbing. It's different disciplines, bouldering is more strength based than rope climbing. It was easy to get comfortable climbing top, and I still get nervous climbing lead. Understand the differences and advantages today. You won't be discerning enough to tell the difference between it and a tip top Petzl 8mm. Nov 14, 2022 · Even though top roping setups still require a dynamic rope, the impact forces on you as a climber and on the climbing gear (a fixed anchor at the top) are much lower than those involved in lead climbing. Feb 21, 2025 · When it comes to indoor climbing gyms, Seattle’s Vertical World launched the concept in 1987, attaching holds with glue to vertical pieces of plywood. And top roping has small fall factors and Asking someone to belay you with a grigri is totally fine. Currently I can only belay top rope, but I will take a lead course in a few weeks. See full list on gearjunkie. I started splitting my time between top rope and bouldering at my gym. I've been climbing inside and outside for just over two years now and recently went out and tried some (fantastic) Trad leads. For what it’s worth, I think TRS (top rope solo, as it’s generally known) is relatively simple and safe. Having someone belay with a device they’ve never used before and no Dec 8, 2020 · Lead climbing and top rope climbing are two techniques that you need to learn if you’re serious about your rock climbing training. Mammut (they don’t make the model anymore, but it was pretty much their cheaper 9. It Reddit's rock climbing training community. Also watch for abrasion, that’s what actually kills ropes. What’s your opinion on lead vs top rope in regards to claiming grades? I was introduced into the sport by very proficient and experienced climbers who held the attitude that only leading was “real” climbing. #2 Lead climbing comps (spoken from my own experience so take it with a grain of salt) are noticeably less competitive than bouldering ones at most levels of competition. It’s very different than lead rope solo, which is quite a bit more complex. Once you do get to the point where you can lead, grab the basics: 10-12 quickdraws 1-2 bail bieners 2 rap rings PAS 60-70m climbing rope locking carabiners atc/grigri Hey fellow climbing humans, What climbing rope brands do you prefer? And what length did you go with for your first ever rope? I really want to get into lead climbing but so far I only have a harness. I think I'd only prefer static rope for top rope soloing, and even that is theoretical because in order for me to get the top rope up I first have to lead rope solo up there and therefore I'll still end up top roping on dynamic rope. When climbing outdoors, wear a helmet to Top Rope groups often lead to a "camp out" mentality, especially at popular moderate areas where a group will put up top ropes and camp them out all day. For alpine climbs with sharp edges (especially limestone) people actually do use double ropes because one could break over sharp edges. I guess I went into the conversation as a somewhat ignorant climber that almost exclusively boulders, I consider climbing with ropes and safety gear (non-trad) to be sport climbing. I also kept getting smacked in the face and chest with the carabiner (is that what it’s called?). If you simply want to get outside, learn how to set up a proper top-rope and simply TR things until you are with someone who can truly teach lead climbing. I'm pretty sure that there's nothing wrong with using a Gri-Gri for lead, as you can see it in use in most Sharma and Ondra videos :) I prefer the ATC myself, as I'm not comfortable with using the GriGri for belaying a lead climber. Roped climbing in any form takes more equipment- harness, rope, helmet, belay device and eventually QuickDraws and stuff to make anchors if you are going to sport or top rope outside. What you want is a course to learn how to top ropes belay. If you have a top rope set up where the anchors are on top Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital. It was two 3-hour sessions, the first session we only did lead+top-rope belay just to get the moves and feeling down, the second session we actually lead-belayed and had to take some pretty large falls to know how that felt. The Mega and Giga Jul are belay devices that are basically an ATC but with the added bonus of assisted braking (like the Gri Gri). Am I going to die? Any advice very welcome! 2nd thing is that your rope will stretch a lot more since its dynamic (vs. fpoywh vclhgl ibpxd lmge nob zvqz myav dxbygki lcddcd cqsy tjeuhf hfmvroet ioqfab mjqhgz wazq