Grigri guide mode.
Best Belay Device for Multi-Pitch Climbing 3.
Grigri guide mode This shows how to both raise and lower followers when belaying from the Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. View and Download Petzl GRIGRI2 manual online. GRIGRI2 security sensors pdf manual download. Great belay off an anchor. Jul2 is (imo) the best indoor/single pitch device. Here are some illustrations: Holding the GRIGRI with the entire hand. Happy belaying. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Admittedly, it also handles most closely to a GRIGRI, and adopted familiarity is a big plus. If you want to belay followers up in "guide mode", the GriGri is better for that. Every assisted belay device has compromises, but the Pinch has the correct alchemy of characteristics for me. She is halfway up. Read our review to see why it's our climbing editor's first choice. I find it much more enjoyable than a plate in guide mode. Since the 90s, climbing belay devices have continually developed, particularly in the assisted braking device category. It feeds rope easily enough that with a Aug 14, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Petzl recently released the GriGri +, its newest assisted-braking belay device. I can't see myself using this new device due to the worse top belaying. There are lots of devices you can use, and they vary greatly in terms of weight, cost, and most importantly, friction. For the grigri, you need to completely unclip the device to add and remove a rope. I have put my second on belay directly off the anchor with a Petzl Reverso in guide mode. Below is the most common style of tube belay device has the features for guide mode. The Petzl GriGri is an assisted-braking belay device. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. In this guide, we’ll cover a few ways to ascend a rope: without a belay device, with a belay device in guide mode, and with a GriGri assisted-braking belay device. With an anti-panic handle that makes it particularly suited for learning, the GRIGRI + is a cam-assisted blocking device for top rope or lead climbing in the gym or outside. As a leader I would prefer to just carry an atc guide, as a follower I prefer to use a grigri and carry an atc for backup and as a rappel device. This video assumes you already know how to belay with a GriGri. Switching between the The Edelrid Pinch is my new go-to belay device. Providing a growing selection of products and climber resources gear reviews, guide pro-tips, setter pro-tips, and climber stories. Also, like a standard tube, the two slots allow for rappelling the route. 3. 1 Grigri and 1 Guide/Reverso/whatever per team. Jul 27, 2017 · 1. I have lots of belay experience with regular grigri's and ATC's but I want to get my own grigri. Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. Sep 7, 2020 · The Grigri is a single rope, assisted braking belay device from climbing gear manufacturers Petzl. Apr 6, 2023 · Do you need to do some improvised rope ascending? You don't need a designated waist and foot prusik cord. Thanks Amrit for shooting the video. The Petzl grigri can also be used in a direct belay, though a redirected belay should be preferred when possible. Newer options that are gaining solid following’s are the DMM Pivot which makes direct lowered off the anchor while in “guide mode” easier and the Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide that is optimized for working with skinny twin ropes. The MegaJul is significantly Better for lead belay. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. Sep 16, 2017 · Edelrid Mega Jul — Proper Guide Mode Setup *Note: When belaying a follower on a single rope in guide mode, make sure to clip the belay carabiner back through the keeper wire to ensure the rope cannot flip and unlock the device (see diagram above). Gigajul is the best (imo) for outdoors because it gives you the most options. #learntoclimb#rockcl View and Download Petzl GRIGRI+ manual online. That’s because the handled camming mechanism can easily unblock the rope. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. The greatest advantage to these advanced tubular devices is that they can be used on multi-pitch climbs to bring up your second on a “direct belay,” where you attach the device itself to your anchor instead of yourself, and therefore can be almost Abundant features for a better belay. Rappelling Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. Also for: Grigri. It’s the ideal belay device for top rope climbing with a specific mode that makes it easier to take up slack. These are the only two kinds of belay devices you need. If you plan to do a lot of outdoor climbing then I would just go for the Giga. On alpine routes where the belayer needs to use semi-downtime to change clothes, check the topo, grab some food/water, etc. Any rock climber climbing a multi-pitch route will likely want to utilize guide mode. Mar 29, 2019 · If you have a Grigri or similar auto locking belay device, you can’t rappel in the normal manner, because only one strand of rope fits in your device. Leader is belayed on a Grigri, while carrying the other belay device. You can use it just fine in the gym as well. All of these modes allow for a nearly endless number of options when lead belaying, belaying the second, or rappelling, making this the most versatile device we have used. (price does not matter in this discussion) I'm mainly concerned about the cam engaging too often when lowering or due to rope drag which could get frustrating. For rappels fix the rope in the middle, first person rappels with Grigri on single strand. AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) instructor Margaret Wheeler explains how to belay directly off the anchor for safety and efficiency. It I developed a small plastic handle which makes the "unlocking" of the device gradual, allowing climbers to have a more controlled lowering during top rope, lowering on guide mode and a better Nov 22, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Guide mode sucks. This is applicable in single pitch and multipitch scenarios. It's also lighter. Dec 13, 2023 · Climbers can usually find an ATC Guide for about $30, while the GriGri costs $100 to $140. The AMGA recommends redirecting the brake strand above the GriGri to provide further brake strand friction. Jan 16, 2025 · I could skip the GriGri, but it just seems much nicer for guide mode belay (with the option to lower more easily) and lead belay compared to the ATC guide. Nov 11, 2023 · Petzl GriGri 2, Edelrid Mega Jul Sport, and DMM Pivot are probably your best bets out of the 22 options considered. ClimbSource. Necessary Equipment and Skills The good news: You can ascend a rope with just a handful of things you probably carry on your harness already. This article explains how to use guide mode for climbing + how to lower a climber in guide mode. Jul 29, 2019 · The time tested choices here are the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4. The Pilot is simple, light, and perfect for what it does. I will sometimes be climbing with less experienced people. SRP £60 The Edelrid Giga Jul is available from specialist retailers. It’s crucial in this scenario that your ATC has a second attachment point, aka guide mode, for belaying from above. Petzl Reverso ($50) Style: Auto-blocking tube Weight: 2. Learn the difference between the Grigri and the Grigri+. However, it does have drawbacks like This video shows how to belay and lower from the top using a grigri when rock climbing. GigaJul is strictly better than the MegaJul and behaves the same in guide/plaquette mode as the ATC guide. Sep 15, 2020 · A dedicated belay biner can make a world of difference. I know climbers who use both successfully. Simple and effective, it's changed climbing. Jul 23, 2015 · This is confusing at first. Dec 15, 2021 · Any guide mode belay device, such as the ATC guide or Petzl reverso, can be used in a direct belay. The Edelrid Pinch also connects directly to the belay loop, delivering advantages that vaulted the device to the top of my list. The Grigri is an assisted braking belay device. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. The techniques shown are complex and are best learned in person from a certified guide. ATC guide seems to be needed for rappel. We also check out the n Dec 1, 2023 · When we check the WeighMyRack database for the most wanted and owned mechanical belay devices (tube style belay devices are a different post) by WeighMyRack users we find the top 3 models in each category are… Most Wanted Mechanical Belay Devices Mad Rock Safeguard Wild Country Revo Petzl GriGri In 2022, the GriGri+ was #3 Most Wanted but the GriGri has surpassed it in 2023. The ATC XP: another belay device from Black Diamond inspired by the classic ATC. Obviously you need to pay attention and be constantly pulling in slack, but that can be accomplished with quick breaks to do other things. Yes. ATC guide is pretty much the gold standard belay device for mountaineering. Learn how to belay or lower your climber from above using a Grigri, with instruction from the American Mountain Guides Association. If the bag gets stuck, you can pause hauling and begin belaying your partner. Which even when single pitch trad climb I end up doing a fair amount depending on the anchor situation. How does it work? How is the rope inserted? How do brake hand and guide hand work together for taking up or paying out rope? What failures should Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 933 How to belay from the top | and lowering - simple techniques using a grigri Aug 13, 2024 · The Edelrid Pinch is a much-anticipated assisted braking belay device. Instead, be resourceful with the gear you probably already have. Additionally, despite using it for months, it still takes effort to properly load ropes into “guide” mode when compared to other plaquette devices. Eh, for the Grigri, I just quickly wrap the rope around my hand a couple of times with lots of slack thrown in. The Lifeguard has awkward geometry for that. com is your source for climbing gear and everything climbing. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. That’s because assisted-braking devices—like a GriGri or a tube-style device used in guide mode—are designed to lock to the rope, preventing a lower. Holding the climber side of the rope. I frequently take my hands off the "brake" strand to take off my shoes, grab some water, ect. Worse than a grigri as a progress capture for ascending a fixed line or as a grillion. I have both the Lifeguard and the latest GriGri and have used both extensively. 0 oz. I climb a lot with people who are already experienced with regular grigri. Second unties the knot and raps both strands on the other device, with partner giving fireman belay. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some Jan 4, 2024 · You can tell this is a Guide Mode Tube because of the two extra holes on the outside of the slots. Jun 26, 2021 · With a plaquette (guide mode) style belay device, attaching and removing the rope is simply a matter of clipping and unclipping a locking carabiner through the keeper wire on the device. Jun 18, 2019 · The idea of guide mode is that it turns a conventional belay device into a brake assist device for bringing up climbers following a pitch - like a 'guide' would do - however the Giga Jul already has a brake assist mode so is it a slightly superfluous function of the device? Jun 27, 2020 · Alpine ‘Grigri’: Assisted Braking belay using a Guide mode device for top rope. , you can be momentarily hands-free and still have a (fairly) secure belay. Dec 5, 2024 · The Edelrid Giga Jul combines assisted braking, standard tube-style use ("manual" mode), and auto-blocking all in one single device. It functions and is used the same way as the ATC, except it has an additional loop for belaying in guide mode. May 7, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. This video shows how to belay in guide mode for different devices including a grigri, ATC or Plate Device, and Munter Hitch. Follower is belayed in guide mode. Clip the rope through the atc with a second locker. If you are not sure which one is best for you, here are some pros and cons of both belaying devices. The lead mode pays out slack very similarly to the standard Grigri. The Physics of GriGri | When does No-Hands Belay Fail? How To Use A Petzl GriGri + NEW GriGri+ | Climbing Daily Ep. Nov 6, 2022 · The ATC belay device is ubiquitous at gyms and crags. Outside of that, it’s a Grigri. I haven't used the GriGri on a multipitch climb, but while testing the Lifeguard in guide mode, belaying my partner to the anchor, I noticed there is quite a bit of slip before the brake assist catches. Petzl GriGri Advantages: Assisted Braking: The GriGri has an Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Guide Mode is an auto-locking belay technique for climbing. #belay # PINCH Basic Functions | EDELRID A new Grigri like device from Edelrid with an interesting extra feature or two, but one in particular that makes me nervous. Ratchet method, Grigri method, redirected plate method. Another key feature to Guide Mode is that it allows one leader to belay two followers at once. Giving slack without holding the brake side of the rope. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. Jun 23, 2017 · A review of two different belay devices: the Mammut Smart and the Petzl Gri Gri + from The Climbing Zine, June 2017, field tested. We decided to give it a go. Belaying my second in guide mode directly off master point, she needs to be lowered, what do? Okay, given the following: I led some multipitch >2 and established an anchor. Petzl’s most recent rendition of the Grigri has an anti-panic feature to add security when belaying in top rope mode. Follow these step by step instructions on how to belay with a GriGri, including giving slack quickly. Don't listen to any of these gumbies talking about how the grigri is better. View and Download Petzl GRIGRI manual online. For everything else, the Lifeguard is clearly superior. Here are our in-depth reviews. 2. Jan 28, 2019 · Yes, it's heavier, but unless that's a big concern what other reason would someone use a Guide ATC over a GriGri? Just a quick note here: lowering with the GriGri in "guide mode" might not be as trivial as just opening the lever. It is difficult to make an exhaustive list of all incorrect techniques. Feb 12, 2021 · Don’t make belaying more complicated than it needs to be. Great assisted braking. Rapping is a no-go without some You could use just a grigri, but you lose a lot of versatility. Aug 6, 2021 · A GriGri can generally handle a top belay just as efficiently as an ATC-Guide, and simul-rapping is an option when necessary. Jun 22, 2019 · Consider an ascension of a single rope with an ATC guide in locking mode and a foot loop with a friction hitch, as described in this answer: Quickest / most efficient way to ascend a hanging rope with rock climbing gear?. Oct 16, 2020 · With this system, typically the leader is always belayed with the Grigri and the second is always belayed with the plaquette in guide mode. You need to watch that the device isn't going to get awkwardly jammed against a rock and hold open the cam (or wreck your grigri), and you need to keep a hand on the brake strand, as the weight of the climbers rope can slowly keep pulling slack out when the device is in that position. Dec 22, 2022 · The ATC Guide: the ATC Guide is like the ATC’s big brother. I like my GriGri for more casual climbing, but the ATC style devices are more versatile and lightweight. Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. Works on double ropes, set up is as simple as an ATC, smoothest in guide mode of anything I've used and is much lighter and much cheaper then a grigri. It’s a method for belaying one or two seconding climbers directly from a master point anchor, rather than from your harness. Dec 11, 2023 · We breakdown the most owned and most wanted tube style belay devices among WeighMyRack users and explain why climbers love using them. TR mode ramps up the auto-blockiness, bestowing you with even more safety with less effort. However, their mechanisms and features vary from one another, while some climbers prefer the GriGri and others the ATC. Apr 22, 2017 · The new GriGri Plus comes with great upgrades, such as; two belay settings for top-rope and lead belaying, anti-panic mode and smoother rope management for both belaying and descending. View and Download Petzl GriGri+ instruction manual online. GRIGRI+ safety equipment pdf manual download. I hope in the future each part of the world becomes increasingly aware of what the rest of the world does, and at some point we come to a more homogeneous set of techniques distilled from the Feb 22, 2020 · Guide plates are very similar to the tubular belay device with one minor alteration - there are two attachment points (one large, one small). For that reason, it is the preferred tool for multi-pitch climbing amongst all the ATC devices. com Oct 7, 2023 · The question is; why is it OK to belay with a Grigri with no friction in guide mode but not when belaying with a Grigri on lead/top-rope? The answer is; it is, but it isn't best practise. Its basically the love child of an ATC and a grigri. Jan 3, 2024 · GriGri vs ATC: The Pros & Cons The GriGri and the ATC climbing device have the same aim: to keep the climber safe. I was taught that it is a perfectly safe practice to use an auto-blocking tube style belay device hands-free when in guide mode. To review: Get a basic ATC if you are a rank beginner so you can learn how to top-rope belay, lead belay, and rappel. It also allows rappelling in both standard and auto-blocking modes. Most notable of these newer devices are tube-style Here are three ways to lower your climber with a plaquette or guide style device. Others have their preferences for similar designs from other brands, but I am pretty confident more mountains have been climbed with the ATC guide than any other. In all situations, the brake hand should never come off the rope when you are belaying. What we like: Lightweight, affordable, and allows you to belay from above in guide mode; great for rappelling and double-rope setups. You Shop We Donate 1% to a cause. Nov 3, 2020 · The TR/lead belay modes are a novel intro to the line. There's a sport version (one rope, functionally, its a grigri) and the alpine version, which though called "alpine" works well for all climbing. On this Friday's gear show w'are having a look at how to use a Petzl GriGri 2, it's safety features, and what to avoid doing with it. GRIGRI safety equipment pdf manual download. This is the only physical difference from a standard tube. See full list on rockrun. Incorrect placement of the index finger. This page is powered by a knowledgeable community that helps you make an informed decision. All you need is a friction hitch, long sling, and a modern belay device like a Grigri or “guide-mode” style belay device. What we don’t: Not as secure as the Grigri above; more expensive than BD's ATC Guide. "Active assisted braking" is the primary reason people pick Petzl GriGri 2 over the competition. Best Belay Device for Multi-Pitch Climbing 3. Your atc will now automatically lock as you pull rope through it. If you need to get down a rope, here are two options. The grigri is over hyped. The rope leading into the canopy is positioned closest to the “guide mode” hole. Read our four top picks for the best belay carabiner and treat your partner to a deluxe belay! I would highly recommend trying to belay with a grigri from the top. Same as a grigri for toprope belaying and belaying from above. “Guide mode” is a feature found on plaquette-style tubular devices like the Black Diamond ATC-Guide or Petzl Reverso, which have a hinged guide-mode loop. We review ithe GriGri + and compare it to the former model, the GriGri2. Nov 26, 2013 · I use a Reverso for multi-pitch climbing and personally I like belaying the second in guide mode, especially if we're not swinging leads (so I don't have to change anything around to lead belay). Great handle. Since many multi-pitch climbers rappel the route, they expect to use a tube belay device that accepts 2 ropes (vs a GriGri style device which cannot perform a standard rappel). Clip the ATC guide to your belay loop with a locker through the “guide mode” hole. Jul 25, 2023 · Lowering with a Grigri from the top is significantly less convoluted than lowering with a tube-style device in guide mode. However, the GriGri is not particularly great for that either, so I use a DMM Pivot for that. When asked if Delap thinks that cost is a factor in belay device preference, he stated: “Yeah. May 13, 2025 · This Petzl GriGri review is for all the climbers around the world looking for an assisted braking belay device and have not yet tried the GriGri. Heavier loads may need to be lowered out using a munter hitch or belay device. This device can connect directly to the harness (or anchor for a top down belay) without a carabiner passing through the two closed loop. Jan 22, 2025 · Our review of the Edelrid Pinch gave high marks for its light weight, fluency with skinny ropes, and a reliably safe orientation. Apr 21, 2015 · I find the regional differences quite interesting (this thread has had three (ish) so far - guide mode, trad with Grigri's and swapping belay devices). Feb 15, 2024 · This isn’t a feature just for guides. Designed for lead and top rope climbing, GRIGRI is the gold standard for belay devices. The ATC is hung from your master point with one locking carabiner, then the bight of rope is clipped with a second locker. An atc guide or similar device will allow you to belay from the top in guide mode, belay two partners from above, and rappel off the route. In the gym or at the crag, it makes belaying easier with cam-assisted blocking. Disengaging a device in this orientation could cause you to drop your partner. Remember that even brake assist devices are not foolproof and must be always be used with correct belaying technique. * If you don’t have a pulley, an alternative for light loads is to simply belay the bag up with an auto-blocking belay device (such as a GriGri or an ATC in guide mode) or a garda hitch. Jul 24, 2025 · Top-belaying with the device is called guide or reverso mode and offers an auto-blocking advantage on the rope if the climber were to fall. Dec 16, 2022 · The Petzl Grigri, invented in 1991, is single-handedly the most well-known assisted braking belay device. Grigri top belay is butter. Feb 3, 2019 · The progress capture / ratchet is a critical part of a hauling system. If you’re counting grams, Petzl’s guide-style Reverso weighs a mere 57g compared to the Grigri’s 175g. Lastly, in auto-block or guide mode, the Mega Jul adds more friction to the pull than other plaquette devices, especially with fat ropes. May 11, 2019 · Is it worth the extra price and weight over say, a Petzl Reverso – I’d say yes and it’s certainly better than trying to use a GriGri in guide mode! It’s by far the best of the Jul belay devices I’ve tested here on CGR. After you learn these skills, get one Petzl GriGri and one guide-mode ATC of your choice. Abundant features for a better belay. tpltnyzvbrqgwsxjhrvvsilxtseyxfxvdgczmlpwntxlqqkcxjzjxdggmcbxmdnjeomtpwzt